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I
just purchased a copy of the new book "Modelling the F-4 Phantom
II" by , published by Osprey Publishing. Having worked on F-4Cs
and F-4Es for five years back in the 1980s I believe I have a somewhat
unique perspective on modeling this airplane.
The book
has six chapters plus a foreward by an RAF Phantom pilot, an introduction
that suggests different modelling tools and materials, a section on
weathering, duplicating the bare metal areas, displaying the completed
model and photographing the model, a biography and reference section,
and a list some of the currently available Phantom kits with some comments
about each. One possible problem for American purchasers of the book
is the liberal use of British brand-name paints, materials and chemicals,
calling for the use of such materials as "Rotring air brush
cleaner" and "Halford's screen wash." I have no
idea of what the US equivalents of these would be, but of course with the
internet I'm sure we can get that info readily from our Brit friends.
The authors also describe using different gauges of "fuse wire"
for cockpit details, but as an
American, even being an electronics tech, I'm not sure what fuse wire is
nor what an American equivalent would be. I've found several gauges
of lead wire at a fishing tackle shop (for tying flies) that work very
well for detailing. Perhaps this is the same stuff?
The book doesn't give many insights about the F-4 and it's unique
characteristics; rather, it shows several models in three scales, 1/72,
1/48 and 1/32, discussing construction, detailing with resin and photoetch,
painting, decaling and weathering with washes and pastels. If you
are looking for a project as super-detailed as Pierre Greutert's superb
1/32
F-4S (those of you who are members of the Yahoo groups F4sForever and F-4
Discussion know the model I'm referring to), you'll be disappointed.
This book has each subject model built more-or-less out of the box, with
the additions of detail parts in the cockpits and other areas, but no
major surgery or scratchbuilding. One item I noted being on most all
of the models in the book but not mentioned is the little coiled silver
wire that goes from the backs of the seats to the canopies. Most people don't
know what these wires are, so it seems. I've even seen these wires called
"canopy heater wires" in one article about a model F-4E (in a
1983 issue of FineScale Modeler). These wires are actually for the
"canopy interdictor block", which keeps the seat from ejecting
until the canopy has jettisoned.
In an F-4, if the canopy doesn't leave the
airplane, the seat won't
go through it as it would on some other fighters. When the canopy
jettisons, the wire pulls out the interdictor block on the top rear of the
seat, which allows the ejection sequence to proceed. All production
Phantoms use Martin-Baker seats (Mk-H-5 or Mk-H-7) and have this feature.
I do not know if the prototype Phantoms which used McDonnell designed seats had
this.
The first project is an 81st TFS (Spangdahlem AB, Germany) Hill
Gray painted F-4G in 1/48 scale by Hasegawa with Eduard photoetch, Aires
exhaust nozzles, and AirDOC decals. There are a couple of very minor
errors in this chapter, referring to AGM-88 HARMs as AGM-45 Shrikes in a
couple of places for one, as well as mentioning cutting and dropping the
"moulded-in flaps on the main wings... just inboard of the
wing-fold", the "flaps" which of course are the
ailerons. I would have hoped a book on the F-4 would have
mentioned the unique-to-Phantoms (AFAIK) characteristic that when the
stick
is deflected one aileron goes down while the opposite side has a spoiler
that comes up (with that side's aileron traveling upwards only a couple of
degrees as the spoiler comes up). As the book says, when the
hydraulics aren't pressurized, both ailerons tend to droop over time.
The F-4G is shown with the left side aileron fully down, which was
possible but rare to see. Generally the ailerons would droop to a
maximum of only 30 degrees or so, and most often the ailerons on each side would be at noticeably
different angles from each other.
Interestingly, in this chapter the authors describe a
mistake they made, planning to use the Aires resin exhaust nozzles but
failing to make sure they fit before gluing the major assemblies of the
aircraft together. Because some plastic structure inside the rear
fuselage of the Hasegawa kit should have been cut away for the nozzles but
wasn't, the author had to cut the nozzles much shorter so they would fit.
I liked that they so readily admitted their mistakes and how they compensated; who among us has never
done something similar?
The authors also heavily tint the center windscreen green on this
and the other models in this book, which is incorrect. The
three-piece windscreen on a Phantom consists of the side panels which are
Plexiglass plastic roughly 1/2 inch thick, and the center panel which is
laminated glass, roughly an inch thick. Glass is less transparent
than plastic (compare a
large acrylic aquarium with a glass aquarium of similar capacity at a pet
store if you want to see this for yourself), and really thick glass takes
on a very faint green tint when viewed from an angle, such as that of an
observer on the ground next to the aircraft. I had seen many models
of Phantoms with tinted center windscreens before I joined the Air Force,
so when I was working on the real jets I took a good look to see if this was
accurate. In most lighting conditions, the center windscreen looked
absolutely clear, but perhaps VERY slightly darker than the side panels.
You'd really have to be looking for it to notice it. However, in certain
lighting conditions (hazy no-shadow days as I recall) the glass would
appear a beautiful shade of green. The center windscreens on book's
models are
tinted far too dark. If you are going to tint the center windscreen
glass on your models, make it VERY subtle!
The second chapter in this book illustrates the Revell RF-4E in
1/72 scale, using Eduard Photo-etch, part of the Aires Cockpit and
afterburner nozzles, and AirDOC decals to finish the model in AG51 marking
in the two dark greens, dark gray Luftwaffe scheme of the 1980s.
This is a short chapter, but does a nice job of showing the detail that
can be incorporated in this small scale.
The third chapter
details the 1/48 scale Hasegawa FGR.2 painted light grays in 23 Squadron
markings, using the Aires F-4E/F cockpit with modifications, Airwaves
seats for British Phantoms, and AeroMaster decals. The authors show
the difficulties involved in getting the Aires cockpit to fit, and have a
few good detailing ideas. One minor quibble I have is that the
author deflects the rudder and rudder pedals (correct) and the nose
wheel is turned to match (maybe not so correct). On the Phantom (as
with most other aircraft with hydraulic nose wheel steering) the nose
wheel position is independent of the rudder pedals with the hydraulics
depressurized. The rudder is mechanically, as well as hydraulically,
connected to the rudder pedals, but the nose wheel steering is hydraulic only with a small hydraulic motor and gears. Whatever position the
nose wheel is in after engine shutdown or after the tow bar is
disconnected is where it will stay. The rudder and rudder pedals
will go to a neutral position, unless a stiff breeze blows the rudder off
to one side in which case the pedals will deflect accordingly. As an
addendum, on the Phantom
when the hydraulics are depressurized the control stick goes to the
centered neutral position no matter what deflection the stabilator was set
to during shutdown. The stab will retain whatever position it was
left in when the hydraulics were depressurized even as the control stick
goes to centered neutral. The ailerons were always at neutral and
the spoilers closed when the jet was shut down in my experience. The
spoilers could be pried up by the crew chief during his preflight
inspections. Normally they'd close themselves after he let them go, but sometimes they'd stay up a
little. Still, it was extremely rare to see them open even a little
without the hydraulics pressurized and the stick deflected. Do note
that Phantom spoilers were used in conjunction with the ailerons only; the
left and right wing spoilers couldn't be raised simultaneously like you
might see on an airliner or cargo aircraft. Anyway, it is possible
that the nosewheel, rudder pedals and rudder would all be in alignment off
to one side on a parked Phantom, but it's much more likely that the
nosewheel would be centered. If you want to throw contest judges for
a loop, cock the nosewheel off to the opposite side from the rudder and
pedals; you'd be just as correct but it'd sure look unnatural!
This is the only model in which the auxiliary air doors ("aux
air doors" for short) are mentioned. These doors opened a utomatically when the landing gear handle was selected "down"
on J79-powered Phantoms, and opened automatically on Spey-powered Phantoms
when the air speed was below a certain limit. The aux air doors
allow cooling air to circulate around the engines when the aircraft is at
slow speeds or sitting stationary, and
should always be open when the aircraft is parked. On the
J79-powered versions, the doors snap shut when the engines are being shut
down as the generators drop offline, but as soon as the engines have
spooled down completely a ground crewman will pry them open and insert a
safety strut to keep them open. Parts of the engines and the
centerline keel structure are visible through the doors. J79-powered
versions have only the pair of aux air doors on the belly while Spey
powered versions have a second pair on the
sides of the aft fuselage. With the engines shut down, the aft
fuselage aux air doors drooped almost closed.
The next chapter features the 1/32 scale Tamiya F-4J in the RAF's
74 Squadron markings from Yellow Hammer, Eduard PE, Cutting Edge
Sidewinders and Navy Wheels, a CAM SUU-23A gunpod on the centerline, and
Reheat seats and intake covers. This model features a scratch-built
Ram Air Turbine and landing gear downlocks made from thin plastic tubing.
Most Phantom models I've seen don't have the downlocks in place, which
clamped over the rod portion of the gear retraction actuators. Those
downlocks were in place until just before the crew "stepped" to
the jet when we maintenance folks would remove them, and reinstalled by us as the aircrew was still getting
out of the jet after they shut it down. Accurate downlocks would be
a nice thing to have Cutting Edge or someone else market.
The authors did an excellent job depicting
the worn paint on the
canopy sills, worn from personnel getting in and out of the aircraft.
The only problem I see with it is that they have the left and right sills
equally worn. In reality the right sill was never badly worn, and we
entered and exited the cockpit from the left side only. The
right-hand sills got only very minor wear from the crew chief standing on
them as he polished the interiors of the open canopies.
This model also has an open dragchute door with a chute packed
inside. This is inaccurate, as the door would be pulled closed as
soon as the chute was stuffed in the canister, or the door left open with
no chute inside. You could display a model with the chute inside
like this if you also position a maintenance stand under the rear of the
jet and have a crewman on the stand who is about to close the door.
This model uses the Cutting Edge wheels for Navy Phantoms which are
bulged to represent aircraft weight. The True Details Company seems
to have started this trend, but the tires on a Phantom (and many other
high-performance jet fighters) don't bulge with weight. The tires
have extremely strong sidewalls. As weight is added to the aircraft, the
part of the tire on the ground gets flatter and flatter, but the sidewalls
don't bulge at all. As a side note, forgetting to move the chocks
away from the tires before we refueled and loaded up the jet would mean
the jet would settle onto the chocks with all its additional weight.
Once the aircraft was started and the pilot gave the signal to "pull
chocks", we'd discover the error. We'd have to pound, kick,
cuss and otherwise struggle to get the
chocks out. I personally ruined a couple of pairs of boots from
kicking out stuck chocks! If you could get one chock loose, you
could use it to knock the others loose. Sometimes it was a real
battle! We tried not to forget to move the chocks away from the
tires before servicing the jet.
The authors include a photo of a real Phantom in which the three
access panels on the sides of the intake bulge out slightly. The
caption points this out and says "Tamiya accurately represented these
panels... contrary to some views". These are the panels that some
modellers have mistakenly called "Battle Damage Repair patches".
I have similar photos I took of other Phantoms in which these same panels
were flush. I don't remember them bulging out like this on any of
the Phantoms I worked on. Why are they
bulged out on this particular aircraft (and the Tamiya model)?
Darned if I know. Perhaps they had a thicker than normal layer
of sealant on the lip around the opening that the panels mount on.
Personally, when I finally get around to building a Tamiya Phantom I'm
sanding those panels flush.
The last model featured is another 1/32 scale Tamiya model, this
time the F-4E. The authors also used several Eduard photoetch sets,
Reheat seats and intake covers, Cutting Edge resin leading edge slats and
wheels, and decals from CAM, AirDOC, and Superscale. The model is
finished in Greek Air Force markings; interesting to me on a personal
note, 68-0408 is the tail number they picked. I worked on this
very tail number at Ramstein AB, Germany in the 1980s when she belonged to
the 526TFS. This model is painted in the Hill Gray scheme that 408
was in when it was received from the USAF, and is depicted by this model
as very faded. Paint touch-ups are represented by darker gray,
including the spot where the American "star and bar" was painted
over by the Greeks when they received the jet. The authors show a number
of "faded paint" and oily, greasy stain weathering techniques.
This model is very well done. The paint and weathered finish is
spectacular.
There are a few extremely minor errors. One is that the
author put on all the correct downlocks and REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT flags,
but they put the 370 gallon wing tank safety pin RBF flags on the outboard
sides of both pylons. The pins should be on the left side of both
pylons, so on the right wing the RBF flag ends up on the main landing gear
side of the wingtank, not the outboard side.
The second minor error involves the little antenna at the rear of
the panel directly behind the rear canopy. This is the antenna for
the SST-181X rendezvous beacon. The Tamiya Phantom was first
released as an F-4C or D version. On the F-4D, the SST-181X antenna
was mounted on the aircraft centerline as you see here. On the F-4E
version, it was relocated to the right-hand side of the same panel (Door
19). Tamiya didn't make thiscorrection in their F-4E release, and the authors didn't catch it either.
Another error is that the wing root walkways are painted too far to
the rear, extending on to one of the honeycomb panels that cover the wheel
wells. Those honeycomb panels were definite "NO STEP"
areas!
The last error I spotted is that 68-0408 had the modification done
in approximately 1984 while it was at Ramstein in which the upper UHF comm
antenna was relocated from inside the cap at the top of the vertical fin
to the right side of the upper fuselage. The authors didn't add this
antenna to the fuselage. There is another antenna on the top
fuselage centerline between the SST-181X antenna and inflight refueling
receptacle that I'm not
familiar with; it wasn't on 408 when I worked on her. Navy Phantoms have
an antenna located there, so I think it was more likely a mistake on this
F-4E and should've been removed.
For the cockpit, the authors used the new pre-painted Eduard
photo-etch set, and the effect is outstanding. I was interested to
see that the authors added the gunsight video tape recorder on the front
cockpit right console. This is the first time I've ever seen this on
a model. This was added to real F-4Es and Gs to replace the old film
gunsight cameraapproximately 1985. It was great for smacking your right elbow
against when you were reaching for switches on the right console.
No mention was made of the "gun gas purge door,"
which is the small scoop on the top right side of the nose.
Modellers should be aware that on nose-gun equipped F-4Es and Fs this door
is always locked open when the hydraulics are depressurized. As the
engines are started and the hydraulic pressure comes up, this door closes
and stays closed except when the gun is fired when it opens briefly to
purge the gun bay of gases. Upon engine shutdown it opens again.
Again, scratch-built downlocks are put on the landing gear
actuators, greatly enhancing the authenticity of this model. I would
have liked a written description of how those were constructed, or perhaps
a step-by-step series of photos.
The last chapters suggest ideas for displaying Phantom models, for
weathering and painting, for photographing the models, and a bibliography
of good references.
This book relies more on photography than text to show modeling
techniques such as cockpit detailing and weathering. It appears
geared toward an intermediate modeller, one who has basic construction and
painting techniques down, but needs to learn weathering techniques.
Scott R
Wilson
Phormer Phantom Phixer
Comm-Nav Avionics
149 CAMS, 149 TFG, Texas ANG, Kelly AFB, Texas 1980-82 (F-4C)
35 CRS, 35 TFW George AFB, California 1982-83 (F-4E)
525 AMU, 86 TFW, Ramstein AB, Germany 1983-86 (F-4E)
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