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This is
Revell’s Hawker Hurricane IIc. This kit features raised panel lines and
rivets. Some might say that Revell have gone overboard with these features but
nonetheless they will look good if you decide to keep them! The cockpit is a bit
sparse but could easily be dressed up. The landing gear is also basic and the
canopy and windscreen are bit on the thick side.
Essentially
the kit was built straight from the box, except for following; the re-scribing
of the panel lines on the wings and parts of the fuselage, drilling out holes
for the exhaust and the guns and the wheels were flattened to simulate weight.
As
mentioned above, I chose to re-scribe my Hurricane. The panel lines were sand
papered with wet and dry sandpaper and later re-scribed using an old airbrush
needle.
Although
this kit has been around for a while, it is still an easy kit to build. The only
area where I encountered any sort of problems was joining the wings to the
fuselage. The joints on the wings are a little too thick which causes a problem
when joining them to the fuselage. The two parts then become dis-jointed and a
minor gap is created. To solve this problem I trimmed back the joints on the
wings to ensure that they would fit snugly.
As I
couldn’t find any aftermarket decals at the time of building my Hurricane, I
used the ones that came along with the kit. There are two examples in which to
choose from. Both example’s are RAF machines; you can either build an aircraft
from #73 Squadron or a night intruder aircraft from #87 Squadron. I chose #73
Squadron in desert camouflage. The decals are opaque but a little too thick,
which does not allow them to conform to the contours of the plane very well.
Using Micro Sol was an easy solution to this problem.
The main
colours used for this aircraft were Azure Blue FS 35231, Dark Earth FS 30118 Mid
Stone FS 30266 Black and Silver. As can be seen I weathered the aircraft. First
the plane was sprayed silver, and then the camouflage colours were applied. Once
everything had dried, I used “already
used “masking tape to simulate paint chipping. Using old masking tape
removes enough of the surface paint without making the chipping effect look to
severe.
Then I mixed white paint to Dark Earth and Mid Stone, to
simulate a bit of fading and I also applied several washes of burnt umber (watercolours)
and that was about the extent of my weathering process.
Once again
the model was left to dry properly. When this process was over a few coats of
Dullcoat was applied and the model was finished.
Although
not a state of the art kit by today’s standard, it was still fun to build.
Lawrence
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